Showing posts with label Elizabeth Hammond. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Elizabeth Hammond. Show all posts

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Regency Domestics - A Good Life?

During the Regency, all domestic—household—work was labour-intensive. Household servants were commonplace; every home with any claim to gentility had at least one servant. According to Samuel and Sarah Adams (see below) with an income of one hundred pounds per year, ”a widow or other unmarried lady, may keep a Young Maid Servant, at a low salary; say from five to ten guineas a year.” With an income of one thousand pounds per year, expectations increased. Such a household would employ “A Cook, two House-Maids, a Nursery-Maid, or other Female Servant; a Coachman, Footman, and a Man to assist in the Stable and Garden.” Every extra hand lightened the work load, and incidentally increased the prestige of the household—to everyone’s satisfaction.

Guidebooks for domestic servants were available. Elizabeth Hammond’s Modern Domestic Cookery of 1819 contained a section headed “Directions to Servants”. In its introduction, Mrs. Hammond advises “The principal qualification in all servants (but especially in females) is a good disposition, which naturally urges them to anxiously endeavour to give universal satisfaction;...”

For a further three pages, she admonishes and counsels upon the following suggestions:

“Be particularly careful what acquaintance you form;...”

"Invariably speak the truth...”

“Be humble and modest...”

“Never speak lightly of your master and mistress...”

“Carefully avoid quarrels with your companions...”

“Endeavour to acquire the habit...of being contented with their homes.”

Good advice no doubt, but also fostering and reinforcing a certain sort of subservience.

In 1825 after a lifetime of service Samuel Adams, a butler, in cooperation with his wife Sarah, a housekeeper, produced “The Complete Servant”. It was their opinion that such a handbook had never before existed-- “The want of such a manual of duty and practice having often been noticed in servants’ halls,...”. As both Sarah and Samuel had started in service at a young age and ‘risen through the ranks’ as it were, they knew whereof they spoke, and offered all their experience to newcomers.

The Adamses’ in their Dedication “Respectfully Addressed to the Heads of Families in the United Kingdom” go so far as to make suggestions to the master of the house regarding costs and economies of the household, and to the mistress of the house regarding handling of servants.

Nevertheless they too, in their “Advice to Servants in General” lapse into a sort of moral admonishment that sounds patronizing to modern ears. It is sometimes difficult to remember that the Regency was a different time, with a unique world view and ideas now foreign to us. That an employer or a contemporary could advise another with such arrogance is a strange idea to us. Yet the education level and the naivety—the innocence and the ignorance--of many of the servant class must have made these instructions seem necessary and right to their ‘superiors’. As with Elizabeth Hammond, the Adamses' heap advice upon counsel:

“Your wages are the yearly pay for your honesty, and your time;...”

“Dress as becomes your station, if you desire to please your employers,...”

“Be very careful of your reputation for virtue and discretion in regard of the other sex;...”

“Intemperance or excess is a pleasurable evil,--it...enchants and destroys.”

“The virtue of silence is highly commendable,...”

The role of the domestic servant in the English home had a long, long history. During the Regency, no one could have foreseen that in one hundred years the institution of ‘service’ would be threatened, and that in one hundred and fifty years it would all but have disappeared.

Another time we will discuss the individual duties of the various servants. The amount of work they were assigned was as staggering as the moral precepts heaped upon them. The Adamses’ lists of servants’ duties and their instructions on careful and proper fulfilment of the tasks are thorough and complete. In the end analysis, with so much advice, how could a servant ever go wrong?

Til next time,

Lesley-Anne



Friday, June 5, 2009

Regency Dining according to Elizabeth Hammond

I am doing research from the most fascinating book--Modern Domestic Cookery by Elizabeth Hammond, published in 1819. Its full title is "Modern Domestic Cookery, and Useful Receipt Book, containing the most approved directions for purchasing, preserving and cooking meat, fish, poultry, game, etc. in all their varieties; trussing and carving; preparing soups, gravies, sauces, made dishes, potting, pickling, etc. with all the branches of Pasty and Confectionary; a complete Family Physician; instruction to servants, for the best methods of performing their various duties; the art of making British Wines, brewing, baking, etc." This is comprehensive beyond belief.

The book is available from Google Books, free for the download, and I'm going to share from it over the next few months. One of the first things that caught my attention was the discussion of meal courses, for this is quite different from our current style of dining, not least in the quantity of dishes available.

Elizabeth Hammond offers the following observations on presenting the dishes for a course:

"Soup, broth, or fish, should always be set at the head of the table; if none of these, a boiled dish goes to the head; where there is both boiled and roasted.

If but one principal dish, it goes to the head of the table.

If three, the principal one to the head, and the two smallest to stand opposite each other, near the foot.

If four, the biggest to the head, and the next biggest to the foot, and the two smallest dishes on the sides…

If ten dishes, put four down the centre, one at each corner, and one on each side, opposite to the vacancy between the two central dishes; or four down the middle, and three on each side; each opposite to the vacancy of the middle dishes….

Deserts are placed in the same manner;--if you have an ornamental frame for deserts, or a bouquet, or any other ornament, for your dinner-table, invariably place them in the middle of the table."

The book has few illustrations but it does illustrate the best way of laying the table with ten dishes in each course. This of course is completely different from the Victorian service of dish presentation by a servant. In Regency times, the table was laid with all the dishes for the course, then they were 'removed' and the next course was laid out.

In writing further of courses, Mrs. Hammond has a chapter entitled "Articles proper for family dinners in every month". Every dinner has two substantial courses and for each month and course there are several alternatives using food that is in season.

For example:
First Course for January

"Turkey and chine. A brisket of beef stewed and served up in soup, Scotch collops, a brace of carp stewed, savoys, carrots, potatoes, and mince pies."

Second Course for January

"A fillet of veal stuffed and roasted, stewed hare, partridges four in a dish, pig roasted, and apple-pie."

First Course for May

"Neck of veal boiled, mackerel and goose-berry sauce, roasted fowls, and neat's tongue, and a boiled pudding."

Second Course for May

"Roasted leveret, and gravy sauce, turkey poults roasted and bread sauce, young ducks roasted, with gravy sauce; asparagus, tarts, and custards."

First Course for September

"Haunch of venison, with proper sauce; pigeon pie; turbot, with shrimp, lobster, and anchovy sauce; knuckle of veal, with bacon and vegetables, and a marrow pudding."

Second Course for September

"Roasted ducks, with gravy and onion sauce; hot apple pie, roasted partridges, with gravy sauce, garnished with lemon; fried soles, with anchovy and shrimp sauce; lobsters, tarts, etc."

Truly a diet so different from ours as to confirm that the Regency is a far-away place. It's another world, near yet remote, and well-suited to story-telling.

Till next time,
Lesley-Anne